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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.